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ONLINE CATALOGUE : MEN'S COSTUME: 1885 - 1910
MEN'S CIVILIAN COSTUME
MEN'S HATS
MEN'S ACCESSORIES
MEN'S MILITARY COSTUME
WOMEN'S COSTUME
CHILDRENS'S COSTUME
ORDERING

 

Sac Suit

sac suit

The sack suit came into use as common daywear during the mid 1880's and continued with little change well into the first part of the twentieth century. It was used for business and leisure wear, sharing the former with the once mainstays of business wear, the frock and morning coat. The business sack suit was comprised of the coat, waiscoat and trousers, more often cut from the same cloth, although not always so with the waistcoat.Variations in the coat styling offered flap or patch pockets, rounded or straight fronts, and three or four button closing and any combination thereof. Waistcoats were made up in single and double breasted variations, some cut with lapels, others finished plain. The trousers were cut with a straight leg and high waist, a plain finished hem and no pressed crease. A variety of fabrics were used; plain, striped and diagonal worsteds, navy and black being common shades. Fine finished tweeds in checks and plaids were also used. The gentleman at his country home could be found sporting a two-piece tweed suit comprised of coat and breeches or trousers, most often made up in heavier tweeds in broad check or plaid patterns. For hunting, cycling, tennis, cricket or any other sporting activity, a specific style of costume was adopted for each, with the sack suit forming the basis of the style.

"For business, fashion indicates two general styles - the sack and cutaway frock.
Sack coats are made to button one, three or four buttons. It is optional to wear
a collar on the vest or not."
The Etiquette of Men's Dress - 1888

PAGE INDEX

 
Sac Coat
1880 - 1910
Sac Coat
1880 - 1910
Late Victorian men's sack coat
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Late Victorian men's sack coat

Every day wear for men. Single-breasted, 4 button coat with double topstitched edges. Two lower flap pockets, flap or welt breast pocket and inside pockets. Worn with trouser TR906 and waistcoats SW901 or SW901a
Available in a variety of 100% wool plaids, checks, stripes and tweeds.
Jacket lined in 100% cotton sateen.
SC902 Sack Coat...........................$ 585.00
SC902A Sack Suit..........................$1065.00

Square cut bottom, single-breasted, 4 button coat with double topstitched edges. Two lower and one breast patch pocket and inside pocket. Worn with trouser TR906 and waistcoats SW901 or SW901a.
Available in a variety of 100% wool plaids, checks, stripes and tweeds.
Jacket lined in 100% cotton sateen.
SC902B Sack Coat...........................$ 585.00
SC902A Sack Suit............................$1065.00
 
Waistcoat with Lapel
1880 - 1910
Four-in-hand Tie
 
Plain Front Waistcoat
1880 - 1910

Late Victorian men's waistcoat with lapel
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Late Victorian men's bow tie
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Late Victorian men's waistcoat
This elegant waistcoat with lapel is a flattering garment in its own right. It can be of the same cloth as the sack coat for a conservative look or contrasting cloth for the smart dresser. Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower welt pockets and 1 breast welt pocket.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
SW 901.................$235.00
Dotted silk four-in-hand tie in various colors; also classic navy with maroon stripe. The knot is already tied and stitched in place with an adjustable neck band.
This tie is styled from an original dated from the 1890's.
Acc091...........$65.00
This waistcoat can be made in the same fabric as the suit or used in combination with the trouser to where a jacket is not required. Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower welt pockets and 1 breast welt pocket.
Available in a variety of woolens.
Backs in matching cotton twills.
SW901a ..........................$215.00
 
D.B. Waistcoat with Lapel
1880 - 1910
D.B. Waistcoat
1880 - 1910
Late Victorian men's double breasted wiastcoat with lapel
Late Victorian men's double breasted wiastcoat
Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Four welt breast pockets. Available in a variety
of woolens.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
DBW904.................................$235.00
Fully lined, close fitting with back strap and buckle. Two lower flap pockets. Available in a variety of woolens and cotton corduroys.
Matching or contrasting fabrics to go with the sack coat. Backs in matching 100% cotton sateen.
DBW905.................................$215.00
   
MORNING & PRINCE ALBERT COATS
morning The morning coat was considered indispensable in a gentleman's wardrobe by the early 1880's, worn for business, leisure and, with the appropriate choice of accessories, semi-formal occasions. With the many different styles to choose from and with a wide variety of fabrics, the morning coat had infinite possibilities.
Considering the strict dress code of earlier decades, the morning coat surely offered a liberating effect in gentleman's dress. A black morning coat with waistcoat cut from the same cloth and trousers of a lighter shade was considered appropriate for both business and casual daytime wear. Plaids and small checked tweeds were popular for casual wear.The frock coat held it's position as accepted formal wear for daytime occasions such as day weddings and afternoon receptions. It was almost always black with the waistcoat either in matching cloth or in white cotton duck or silk and dark grey striped trousers.
 
Morning Coat
1880 - 1910
Neck Scarf
Prince Albert Coat
1880 - 1910
Late Victorian men's single breasted morning coat
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Late Victorian men's silk neck scarf
Late Victorian men's  double breasted frockcoat
Click to view photo

Worn as day wear with matching vest and trousers. Fully lined , 4 button, 2 inside pockets in tails , welt breast pocket and narrow topstitching. Available in 100% wool in plaids, checks and solids. See vest SW901a and trouser TR906 for morning suit.
CS903 Morning Coat..................$795.00
CS903a Morning Suit..................$1275.00

Neck Scarf in 100% silk.
Acc091a.....$75.00
A more formal day attire.
Fully lined, D.B. coat with waistcoat and optional trousers.
Wide wale diagonals in black, blue and brown.
Waistcoat SW901a
PA904 Coat............$855.00
with Vest & Trousers ....$1235.00
   

THE DRESS COAT - EVENING WEAR
DRESSCOAT
Evening wear consisted of the dresscoat, waistcoat, trousers, plain bibbed shirt front with wing-tipped collar and bow tie or ascot. The beaver fur-felt top hat and either white or grey kid gloves completed the ensemble. The dresscoat, with its front cut well to the side, and thus giving the back the appearance of a ''swallowtail', was reserved for evening formal wear.
A 'Correct Dress Chart' for the Autumn, Winter of 1909 - 1910 provides a detailed description of evening dress consisting of:, "Swallowtail (black), white single-breasted waistcoat of linen drill, pique or silk, trousers with broad braid on outer seams, high silk with broad silk band top hat, plain or pique shirt front, poke lap-front or round tabbed wing collar, white lawn tie, white gloves, patent leather or varnished calfskin shoes and pearl, agate or moonstone links and studs."

"Never wear a dress suit by daylight, even to your own wedding.
The swallow flies only by night.
"
Julius Saul, Little Things in Dress - 1888

 
Dresscoat
1880 - 1910
Bow Tie
Dress Waistcoat
1880 - 1910
Late Victorian men's evening wear
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Late Victorian men's bow tie
Late Victorian men's double breasted  evening waistcoat
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For evening wear. Three button, double breasted with satin-finished lapel. Two inside pockets in tails and one inside breast pocket. In 100% worsted wool. Fully lined.
Worn with waistcoat DWT910 and trouser TR906.
DC910 Coat............$855.00
with Vest & Trousers .....$1335.00

Satin or grosgrain adjustable bow tie in white or black.
Acc092............$55.00
Shawl collar wiastcoat of white cotton pique.
Two lower welt pockets, back strap and buckle.
Worn with evening dresscoat.
DWT910 Dress Waistcoat...........$235.00
Dress Trouser
1880 - 1910
Dress Shirt
1880 - 1910
Late Victorian men's dress trouser
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Late Victorian men's dress shirt
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Trousers with button fly, side pockets back pocket, and adjustable back strap. Worn with suspenders.(not included) Same fabric as the sack coat.
TR906........$245.00
Cotton dress shirt with linen bib, neck band and cuffs. Tailored placket on sleeves
and finished with french seams. Detachable collars separate.
Available in 100% cotton in white.
Available in whole or half neck sizes.
SH907........$185.00
Detachable Collars
1880 - 1910
Spats
Late Victorian men's  shirt collars
Victorian men's spats
Click to view photo
Men's Detachable Collars
Heavily interfaced 100% cotton collar with double stitching
with three styles to choose from.
In half or whole sizes from 14" to 18" neck.
DC908..........................$30.00
Men's Detachable Paper Collars
Detachable paper collars made from laminated card.
Most soil marks can be removed with a damp cloth and the collars will stand up to several wearings.
Available inhalf or whole sizes from 15" to 18" neck.
DC908a............$10.00
Gold Studs for Detachable Collars DC908b...........$5.00 a set
Grey fur felt or white canvas duck.
In sizes small, medium, large, x-large.
Acc094...............$55.00
   
SPORTS & LEISURE WEAR
SPORTS The Norfolk, a belted, pleated and sometimes yoked jacket used primarily
as a hunting jacket in earlier decades had evolved into a more utilitarian
garment for a variety of sports and leisure activities by the 1880's.
This, along with the sack coat, and knee breeches, became the chosen
costume for a variety of activities from shooting, cycling, and touring
to general country wear. Tweeds were the fabric of choice, with all manner
of design; houndstooth, herringbone, plaids and small checks being some
of the more common.

"It seems universally accepted that the proper dress for bicycling is knee breeches, short jacket, cap or helmet, ribbed stocking and low shoes."

Etiquette of Men's Dress - 1888
 
Norfolk Jacket
1880 - 1920
Knickerbockers
1880 - 1920
Late Victorian men's Norfolk jacket
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Late Victorian men's knickerbockers
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Sporting suit of the 1880's and 90's.
Consists of belted jacket with patch pockets with matching trousers or knickerbockers.
Jacket and knickerbockers fully lined in a matching cotton twill.
Available in Harris tweeds and homespuns.
NF905 Norfolk Jacket..................$735.00
with knickerbockers..................$1025.00

Button fly, side pockets, and adjustable back strap. Worn with suspenders. (not included) Fabric to match coat.
TR909....................$290.00