Library

Joustaucorps

1754 - 1757
Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Accession #974.59.1.A
Provenance: English
Condition: Good. The silk lining has been covered by a sheer silk to prevent further deteriation.
Photographs: Slides available
Materials: Dark red wool trimmed with gold galloon, metal strips and buttons covered with latticed thread. Body and Cuffs lined with white silk.
Construction: Hand sewn
Details:

• Two large pockets with scalloped flaps, gilt trim around neck, CF opening, pockets, cuffs and vents. 10 buttons at CF, 6 sham, 1 at top and 3 at bottom functional. 3 buttons on pocket flap (center button non functional being sewn on just below edge of flap, outside buttons functional on flap), 3 buttons on cuff, non functional. There are 3 buttons on each side pleat, 1 at the top, one midway, and another 3cm from hemline. The stitching of the bottom button goes through the front and back pleat while the middle button is sewn on the fold of the back pleat.
• A heavy buckram interfaces the front skirt (was partly visible through lining), and a thick wadding is in both the front and back pleats. The chest is interfaced with canvas but does not extend over to the armhole or into the shoulder.
• The hem is raw edge with a 5mm tape applied to prevent stretching; the lining is finished just back from edge with a slip stitch.
• The lining is finished up to the neckline and front edges. On the left front edge a pleat is put into the lining, 2cm deep and 3cm back from front edge. A back stitch is done 2 cm from edge of pleat.
• Two triangular pieces of linen with a tie are sewn on the inside of coat at top of the side pleats; they measure 8.5cm x 12cm.
• The cuff width measures 18cm at inside seam and 23cm at elbow seam. The cuff is 24cm larger in diameter than the sleeve. (The cuff at the elbow seam extends 12 cm beyond the edge of the sleeve). No interfacing in the cuff.

19^th Century

1890's Postal Uniform

Acc. # 1974 502.1.1
Museum of Civilization
Condition: Good
Material: Midnight blue woolen, collar of red woolen, piping of same red woolen.
Lining: Black cotton sateen for body, cotton twill striped sleeve lining.
Style: S.B. 6 button, stand collar, skirted coat, button stand from collar to waist seam, side back, back cut in one piece(no waist seam or C.B. seam) one pocket vertical in seam of button stand(left side), one pocket in right waist seam, all seams topstitched 5mm, piped edges.
Details:

• Piping: from seam of collar to hem along front edge, top edge of cuffs. Piping is of red wool, 5mm in width. Piping in back skirt seam from the waist to hem
• Collar: 4cm wide, rounded corners, starts 3.5cm from front edge. Made of red wool, faced in cloth of coat .
• Letters on collar: C.P.O. 2.5cm in height, 243 1.5cm in height. C.P.O. is placed in center ofcollar beginning 3.5cm from front edge of collar, the 243 is 1cm from the O. and centered.
• Button stand: 6.5cm wide at top, 7.5cm at 3rd button and 8.5cm at bottom button.. Button stand length is 40.5cm
• Pockets: Breast pocket- placed in button stand seam of left side, 15cm long and top of pocket is 12cm from the collar seam.
  Waist pocket in right front waistseam, 10cm long, starts 13.5cm from the front edge.
• Buttons and Buttonholes: Buttonholes 6.5cm apart, top buttonhole 2.5cm from top edge, bottom buttonhole 1.5cm from waistseam. Left front overlaps right front 7cm. A button on each seam end of side back and waist seam.
• Skirt Length: 31cm
• Side Back: width at waistseam is 12cm, 12cm wide at armhole level. The top of the seam of side back starts 8cm from the shoulder seam.
• Back width: at waist is 14cm, at hem 16cm.
• Pressing seams: Front shoulder seam pressed into back, sleeve seam pressed into armhole, button stand seam pressed into front,waist seam into bodice.
• Cuff width: 8cm at inside seam, 12cm at top of curve, 6.5cm at elbow seam. Seamed at elbow.
• Lining: Lined to waist seam, no inside pockets, plain facing (no button stand)
• Hem: finished with piping of lining. 5mm topstitching along hem edge.
• Facing: whip stitch raw edge of facing from the lining edge to hem (or finish with lining piping as hem.)

1890's Trousers

Details: 2 back pockets, side pockets, watch pocket in right waist seam, piping in side seam from bottom edge of pocket to hem, suspender buttons on inside, no loops, front closing with button right through waistband, button fly.

MEN'S OUTERWEAR RESEARCH 1880 -1900

Men's outerwear for this period seems to provide an infinite number of styles to choose from; there are ulsters, chesterfields, sacs, surtouts, and the inverness, with many variations given to each style. It is these variations to the basic styles that give the variety of garments seen during the 1880's and 90's. The ulster is a good example of this. Traditionally a long, loose, double breasted coat with a large collar, it could be found single breasted, not so long or loose in cut and so called a chester-ulster, or a cape added without sleeves became the Inverness ulster. And so all the styles went. Even the surtout, classically styled as a double breasted coat with a waistseam, was not immune to such changes."...it is made in several shapes, single and double breasted,and with and without a waist seam." [Clothier and Furnisher, 1883].

The varying ease allowances and lengths put into a garment combined with the styling details such as placement of seams, pockets, lapels, etc., are what differentiates one style from another. The surtout is a close fitting coat with back skirts, the chesterfield is a closely fitted sac, while the ulster is a longer, looser version of a sac. There are of course certain styling features that became synonymous with a garment, such as the velvet collar and fly front associated with the chesterfield but that is not to say you wouldn't find these in other styles as well. The types of garments worn through the 1880's and 90's did not vary enough to justify writing a section on each decade. The raglan was introduced in the 1890's and the popularity with which the various styles were worn did change from one year to the next, but the styles seen in the 1880's carried on into the turn of the century. Two styles of coats, the Macintosh and the fur coat, are not described in the style section as they are more in reference to the type of fabrics used rather than the style. Both of these types of garments would be found in many of the styles listed below, such as chesterfield Macintoshes, the Macintosh covert coat, the fur sac coat, fur ulster, etc.. There is no doubt that fur coats were widely worn in Canada, as photographic documentation depicts, but it is not likely to be a garment which the Canadian Parks Service can feasibly reproduce for it's interpreters.

Styles: The most common styles worn during this period were the chesterfield, sac overcoat, inverness, surtout, chester ulster and ulster,covert coat and the raglan coat. Again, it is important to emphasize that these were the basic styles, and variations in styling details were often added.

THE CHESTERFIELD

"As usual the leading style of overcoat, either for Fall or Winter wear, will be the Chesterfield. This, as everyone should know, is a Fly Front Sack."

"The Fly front sack continues to be the predominant style. It is of medium length, and fits the form almost as closely as a frock."

"The Chesterfield still maintains its popularity as the favourite shape of overcoat for general use."

Styling: Single or double breasted, fly front, lower flap pockets, breast pocket with either a welt or flap, with or without a center back seam, velvet collar, stitched edges and seams. The length may vary between 38 to 40 inches. (American Fashion Review, Aug. 1888)

SAC OVERCOAT

When comparing English and American references to this garment, the terminology refers to two different styles. As mentioned in the chesterfield section, The American Fashion Review refers to the fly front sac as a chesterfield. The sac referred to in periodicals from England is a looser cut garment than the chesterfield and does not have the distinguishing features of the fly front or velvet collar of the chesterfield. The English sac is the equivalent of what would simply be called an overcoat in American terms.

Styling: Single or double breasted, whole back (no center back seam), no shaping through waist, lower flap pockets, ticket pocket, and breast flap or welt pocket. The roll collar is faced with fur. Fur trimming along front edge and cuffs was also common in these garments. The length would be to just below the knee, as with the chesterfield.

THE INVERNESS

"The Inverness Cape is always in demand at this season of the year, especially for evening wear."

Styling: More often single breasted with 5 buttons,lower flap pockets, and of course the most standard feature, the cape. It is cut with a center back seam. "The average length is 39 to 40 ", cut 2 to 3 sizes larger than an ordinary overcoat, and the cape should reach to within 1 " of the bottom of the sleeves of the undercoat." American Fashion Review, Aug., 1888.

THE SURTOUT

"...is a garment that is rapidly increasing in popularity; it is made in several shapes, single and double-breasted, and with and without a waist seam."

" For day dress the Surtout will be more or less worn, though for this purpose the Chesterfield is equally correct. The average waist length will be 19 with a full length of from 43 to44 inches."

Styling: Single or double breasted, 5 button, with or without waist seam, breast welt, center back seam with vent.

THE CHESTER ULSTER

"On all hands we learn that this garment is in great demand this season; one cutter last week took orders for fifteen in one morning."

Styling: Single-breasted, 5 button, with large patch pockets and a cape. This garment is cut to knee length as the chesterfield, while the patch pockets and cape belong to the ulster class.

ULSTER

"...a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather, usually double breasted."

"The Ulster and cape is one of those standard styles which always receives a fair share of support."

"Ulsters are the most practical garments for the northern climate."

"The Cape Ulster will continue to have a fair share of popularity for certain purposes. It is admirably suited for stormy weather, and properly gotten up, is a very swell garment."

Styling: Usually double breasted, loose and long with two lower flap pockets, ticket pocket, breast flap or welt or no breast pocket at all, a long back vent with a fly to button, with or without a cape, and a wide collar to protect the ears when turned up. The wide belt commonly worn with the uslter in the 1870's did not seem to have the same popularity in the last decades of the century.

THE COVERT COAT

"...though it should never be used for street wear,(it) will be worn for that purpose by a few who imagine that it is 'quite English' to do so" and "...it will, undoubtedly, be seen on the backs of a few who rank as good dressers,"

"Of all the popular garments that continue to meet with a ready sale, there are few which can vie with the Covert coat."

Styling: Single breasted, with or without fly, 4 button, flap pockets, breast welt, cut with or without a center back seam, The average length is 34" and opens 4" at side seams.

THE RAGLAN COAT

"The most favoured overgarment for the last few seasons is undeniably the raglan."

Styling: Single breasted with fly front, whole back, lapped seams with two rows of stitching. "...it's chief characteristic being the peculiar shape of the sleeve, which is extended to the neck." Tailor and Cutter, Jan., 1900.

SUMMARY

All of the above mentioned garments were commonly worn in both Europe and North America with class, fashion and climate influencing what would be most appropriate. The lighter weight chesterfields, sacs and covert coats were illustrated more often in English fashion periodicals while sacs and ulsters made from heavier woollen goods were shown when referring to outerwear for colder climates. In Canadian photographs of this period, the heavier, longer overcoats, often fur trimmed, were the more common type of outerwear to be seen. The ulster is the garment chosen for the prototype as it was a style commonly illustrated when referring to outerwear suitable for colder climates. It is also a practical choice in that it can be easily modified to represent another common style of the period, the chesterfield.

20^th Century

1930's Postal Uniform

Acc.#: 1988.48.2
Museum of Civilization
Condition: Good
Cloth: Navy wool, black diagonal twill cotton lining
Style: 5 button, S.B., ulster style collar, side seam and C.B. seam, flap pockets, breast pocket
Collar: width: 5.5cm at C.B, 6cm at shoulder seam. collar edge to notch 6cm, lapel edge to notch 6cm, lapel width 10cm, lapel roll line 19cm (from collar-lapel seam to end of roll)
Buttons and Buttonholes: Top buttonhole is 3cm from the top edge of lapel, top buttonhole to 2nd buttonhole is 11cm and 7.5cm between remaining buttonholes. Buttons place 3.5cm from front edge, buttonholes placed 1.8cm from front edge.
Pockets: 2 flap pockets, flaps 6cm x 15.5cm, top stitched 5mm. narrow welt pocket (5,,), top edge of pocket topstitched 7mm.
Breast Pocket: 2.5cm x 10.5cm topstitched
Cuff: 8cm wide all around, seamed at elbow seam, red piping along top edge.
Seams: Center back and side seam. No front darts.
Collar , lapel and front edge top stitched with a 2mm and 1cm stitching from the front edge.
Piping: Red twill piping (2mm) along collar, lapel and front edges ending at bottom edge. Piping along top edge of cuff.
Jacket length: 67cm
Lining: fully lined, welt inside breast pocket on right side only.
Number 16: Embroided on both collar ends in red. Placed 4cm from the tip of the collar and 1.5cm in from the outer edge of the collar. Numbers are 2cm in height.

1930's Trousers

Details: 2 back pockets, side pockets, watch pocket in right waist seam, piping in side seam from bottom edge of pocket to hem, suspender buttons on inside, loops, front closing with button right through waistband, button fly, no back dart.